Monday, July 8, 2013

Rocky Mountain National Park Day 3: Bear Lake to the Loch

Despite going to bed with clear, starry skies, were were awoken by thunder and lightning a few hours later.  A deluge of rain lasted for several hours during the night.  Happily, our tent faired well in the storm, and we were dry and warm throughout the night.

Morning came with dry but cold weather, and scattered clouds clinging to the mountain tops.  After our first couple of experiences with afternoon thunderstorms in the Rocky Mountains, we decided to get up early.  We had a quick breakfast of cereal and coffee and then headed for the Bear Lake Trailhead.  This launching point for a wide number of hikes is located at the end of Bear Lake Road, a road that has been under construction for a couple of seasons.  The park requires hikers to either drive into the the area before 9 AM or take the shuttle bus from a parking area.  We were early enough to be allowed to drive into the park, saving us time.  

The parking area at Bear Lake fills up quickly.  We were one of the lucky last few to get spots before park rangers started turning people away.  The trailhead area was packed with everyone from families with screaming children in tow to mountain climbers with heavy packs of rope and other gear.  We made our way through the sea of people and were soon on the trail.

The first half-mile of hiking followed a wide dirt path that made a very gradual descent through a lush green forest.  The previous night's loud thunderstorm seemed to have favored the  vibrant green vegetation.  The roar of Glacier Creek could be heard through the trees to the East of us.  The morning air was cool and pleasant for hiking and the skies unthreatening.

The trail arrived at a junction with the Glacier Gorge parking area.  The climbing began in earnest after this.  Our hike would only climb about 1,000 feet, but it would do it in less than 3 miles, making for a fairly steady ascent.  The trail remained an easy, level surface to walk on, however.  

A short while later we passed Alberta Falls.  Swollen by heavy rain, the falls were an absolute whitewater show.  The thunder of pounding water drowned out conversation along the trail.  We stopped to take pictures and marvel at the tremendous power of water.

Beyond the falls, the trail climbed across an open ridge.  The lack of trees in this section allowed us views of the snow-capped mountains above.  The skies were a dull gray, and gusts of cold wind whipped across the open ridge.  Hiking in the morning had saved us from the threat of afternoon thunderstorms, but the trade off was chilly mountain air.  

As we climbed, Glacier Falls came into view.  These falls put on an even more spectacular display.  Glacier Creek dropped hundreds of feet over the course of less than a mile in an astounding torrent of violent water.  Downed trees, ripped free from the mountainside by the power of water, littered the creek's path.

The remaining section of the trail to Loch Vale was a steady ascent up a series of switchbacks.  We huffed and puffed our way along the trail, the air growing colder as we hiked.  This hike was our first trip above 10,000 feet of elevation.  A large mass of frozen snow greeted us at the top of the final switchback, the first snow we had seen since April in Michigan.

The Loch was truly stunning.  A crystal, clear lake lined with low rock formations and hardy pine trees, it was reminiscent of many of the lakes in Northern Ontario.  The one key difference, however, being the 3,000 foot rock walls towering over the lake.  Snow-capped mountain peaks dominated the skyline, the steep mountain walls adorned by Andrew's Glacier.

By climbing over and around the large rocks that bordered the lake we were able to see the picturesque alpine lake from a variety of viewpoints.  Peering through some small pine trees off to the side of the lake we could see a beautiful alpine meadow with a small stream flowing through it.  The entire landscape was almost too stunning to believe.  

The air by the Loch was freezing cold, and a chilling breeze blew across the water, pushing small waves towards the shore.  We pulled on our fleeces and ate a quick snack while sitting on the shore.

Our return hike was met with gradually warmer weather and dozens of hikers who had made a later start to their hike.  By the time we returned to Alberta Falls, the sun was shining brightly overhead and dozens, if not hundreds, of tourists were climbing the rocks by the falls.  We made our way back to the trailhead, wading through the crowds of families like salmon swimming upstream.  

The hike concluded at the trailhead a few minutes after noon.  We were happy to have the rest of the day free to relax and enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery.  We ate a big breakfast for lunch at The Egg and I in Estes Park.  In the evening we attended a ranger presentation on black bears in the park, before falling asleep beneath a canopy of stars.  We have been having an amazing time in Rocky Mountain National Park.