Moab/Canyonlands Day 1

After finishing our backpack in Bryce Canyon we headed for the General Store by Sunset Point for much needed showers.  The store had coin operated showers for $2.  Knowing that we had a long drive ahead of us, we re-packed the Jeep in a way that allowed us to  take the top off without any of our stuff blowing away.  It was cool and cloudy in Bryce while we unpacked and then re-packed the Jeep.  At one point, all of our possessions were scattered along the sidewalk in front of the general store.  Folks walking by looked at us like transients, which I guess we kind of were.

Once showered and packed back up we headed off towards Moab.  We decided to take a more scenic route than the long, barren drive  we had taken on I-70 on the way out.  By taking side roads, we we would be able to drive through much of the Grand Escalante Staircase National Monument, and some of Capitol Reef National Park.  

The route did not disappoint.  The road climbed  relentlessly through bizarre rock formations as we drove east then climbed to over 10,000 feet of elevation in places. The astounding views seemed to stretch to the ends of the earth.  It was hard not to be impressed with the civil engineers that designed and built these roads- roads which were in far better shape than Michigan's highway system.  Considering the brutal landscape that had to be tamed in the construction of this path, it must have been quite a feat.  

Approaching Boulder, Utah, the road made a dizzying descent down the face of rock walls.  Sheer drop-offs on either side of the road made for white knuckle driving.  Just past Boulder we found a great place for lunch.  

The Hell's Backbone Grill was like an oasis in the desert for us.  Located right off of the highway on the outskirts of Boulder, the grill served eclectic and delicious fare in a beautiful setting.  We enjoyed a very late breakfast (always the best meal of the day) with organic eggs, fair trade coffee, potato pancakes and homemade bread and jams.  We were completely stuffed by the time we got back on the road. 

Past Boulder, the road cut a beautiful path through groves of cottonwood trees with scatterings of free-range cattle on green hillsides.  The weather was cool and breezy, with dark clouds brewing on the horizon.  It was weather more fit for Michigan, and made us feel at home while driving.

The drive through Capitol Reef National Park was  reminiscent of our time in Zion, but on a smaller scale.  Red rock formations towered over the road in places, and groves of cottonwood trees and a lush, green landscape adorned the small stream that flowed along the road.  We stopped for a few photos along the highway and to stretch our legs.

Beyond Capitol Reef, the terrain became truly bizarre.  Eventually, there were no trees to be seen, and towering, gray rock formations stood sentinel on both sides of the road.  After we made the turn north for I-70, the terrain opened up and became flat and barren.  Red mesas shimmered in the distance, and the road stretched into the horizon.  Even the 65 mph limit seemed inadequate while cruising the flat terrain.

The skies continued to darken while we drove, and we wondered if taking the top off of the Jeep was going to be a mistake.  Luckily, the weather forecast proved accurate, and we never saw the precipitation held by the dark skies.  

We arrived in Moab in the evening.  The air was thick and heavy as we drove through down Main Street.  Moab looked to be a very fun town, with eclectic eateries, coffee shops, outfitters, gear shops, art galleries and a brewery.  Thanks to the advice of a Moosejaw employee back home we had a campsite in mind for the night.  We headed out of town on a side road, but before the directions could take us to our destination we spotted a different BLM (Bureau of Land Management) campground on the side of the road.  This campground had ten sites situated right on the shores of the massive Colorado River.  We couldn't resist camping on water for the night.

After setting up camp, we headed back into town for some dinner at Miguel's.  Miguel's is a well-known mexican establishment.  They had nothing but glowing reviews online, and there fish tacos were voted number one by Outdoors Magazine, so we figured we couldn't go wrong.  The reviews were right.  We had a delicious dinner of potato flautas and mahi mahi tacos.

By the time we returned to camp, the skies had cleared some, and we crashed in our tent under the canopy of stars and black canyon walls.  The campsite next to us was staying up late drinking and listening to music.  We fell asleep to the hits of the 80's.

In the morning we grabbed a light breakfast and did some grocery shopping in town before heading for Canyonlands National Park.  Canyonlands is a massive park, with three distinct areas, or districts.  Our first destination was the Island in the Sky District, to the north of Moab.  

Island in the Sky is aptly named, as the bulk of the park sits on a large mesa.  This relatively flat piece of land is bordered by the Green River on one side and the Colorado River on the other.  The rivers meet to the south of the park, trapping the landmass high above it.  To the north, a tiny isthmus of land, called the neck, connects the mesa to the surrounding land.  Ranchers once used this area to hold cattle, as only the tiny neck needed to be secured in order to trap large herds of cattle on the island.  

Willow Campground is the only campground in the park.  We arrived to find it already full for the night, so we headed back out of the park in search of a place to camp.  About ten miles past the park boundary, we found a BLM campground called Cowboy Camp with space.  

Cowboy Camp turned out to be much more impressive than Willow.  With only 7 isolated sites situated on an open ridge overlooking miles of open desert, the campground was the perfect place for solitude near a national park.  We set up our campsite and changed into hiking clothes. 

It was late afternoon by the time we reached  the trailhead for our hike.  I was hoping to hike in the cooler part of the day, but it was still in the 90's when we stepped off down the trail for the Neck Spring Loop.

The Neck Spring Trail is a 6 mile loop that traverses the arid terrain of Island in the Sky, while passing by a couple of springs.  The hike left the parking lot, crossing the park road before beginning its descent into a small canyon.  Rock cairns, or piled up rocks left by rangers to indicate the path, allowed us to find our way through the desert scrubland.  

As we hiked, the sun bore down with surprising intensity for so late in the day.  The trail was mostly an easy-to-follow dirt path along the side of a canyon.  Occasionally, it would need to cross a wash and climb up the other side.  In these places, we would have to climb down large rocks steps or scurry over stretches of slick rock.  At the bottom of the canyons, we found dried-out washes and lush, green evidence of water everywhere.  The shade of the small trees was more than welcome in the afternoon heat.

Gradually, the trail made its way around the loop.  As it began to climb up the canyon wall towards the road we slowly acquired more and more shade. A relatively easy hike suddenly turned difficult, as the trail turned left and up.  A ten minute stretch climbed almost vertically up large stretches of slick rock towards the rim of the canyon.  A few sections required using hands and feet to climb.

The view on the rim was more than worth the effort, however.  We were back in the sun, but it was setting quickly, and the air was becoming cooler as we hiked.  The setting sun bathed the mesas and canyons in a golden hue while we hiked back towards the parking area.  Two huge jackrabbits ran across the trail.  They seemed to be enjoying the evening shade on the rim. 

Eventually the trail crossed the road and made its way north to the parking lot.  The views into the canyons was astounding, awash in light and shadows of a setting sun.  We stopped to sit on a large rock outcrop for a while in order to take in the grandness of the terrain.  It was impossible not to feel small in such a vast landscape.  

We drove back to camp just in time to watch the last shreds of sunlight melt into the horizon.  We cooked dinner in the now cool air while the skies grew dark.  A steady breeze blew across the desert.  They were dream-like conditions for camping.  

After dinner, we sat around camp and watched the stars come out.  It was one of the best night skies of our trip.  Stars stretched almost from one horizon to the other.  

We are just getting acquainted with Canyonlands National Park, but already I can tell that I am going to remember this vast and remarkable landscape.  

The Westward Drive

It really is amazing how much can change over the course of a couple days of driving.  Over about 28 hours of driving we saw the low, rolling hills and vineyards of southwest Michigan, the sprawling, suburban jungle of metro-Chicago, the endless fields of Iowa corn, the even-more-endless fields of hay and cattle of Nebraska and Eastern Colorado, the towering, snow-capped Rockies of central Colorado, the red-rocks and canyons of Western Colorado and the arid scrublands of Utah.  

We hurried home from the last day of school on  Friday, ran a few last-minute errands and crammed some last minute additions into the Jeep before hitting the road.  It was 4 PM by the time we were driving.  It felt like we had been working on getting ready for this trip forever.  I couldn't believe it was finally happening!  

Before leaving, I had researched some possible places to stop for meals along the way in order to avoid the dreaded fast food establishments that are so common along the highway.  The first of these was a Giordano's in Joliet, Il, for Chicago style pizza.  The route off of the toll road took us about 15 miles north.  This seemed like a reasonable detour for great pizza.  Sadly, the Google Maps app lead us to an abandoned store front.  It would seem the pizza place in question had closed after the Yelp review I used was written.    A quick iphone search found us a Lou Mahgnati's Pizza nearby.  We plugged the address into our Google Maps app and headed off.  Soon, my phone was leading us through a subdivison.  There were a number of quips about Google playing a joke on us, and also about the possibility of just knocking on someone's door and asking to join them for dinner.  To Google's credit, the neighborhood street eventually emptied into the back parking lot of a strip mall.  Success!  We headed inside, relieved to be done wasting time driving around suburbia and hungry, only to discover the inside was entirely devoid of tables.  This was a "to-go-only" pizza place.  We asked the very nice young lady behind the counter if there was a sit-down pizza joint nearby.  She replied "I'm not supposed to tell people this, because they're our competitor, but there is Giordano's right down the street."  We both cracked up.  In about five minutes we sat down for deep dish pizza and greek salad, with the Pens Bruins game on a nearby TV.  It was worth the wait!   

                   

After finishing our pizza we hopped back on the highway and settled in for a long night of driving.  The plan was to drive through the night to Denver before crashing.  The daylight faded as we entered the corn fields of Iowa.  Around mid-night I took over driving and Mary tried to get some sleep.  I soon had the roads mostly to myself as the mileage clicked west.  I found myself fighting to keep my eyes open with the hum of the highway threatening to lull me to sleep. By the time we reached Des Moines I decided we should grab a cheap hotel and get some sleep.  It wasn't worth saving a few hours and a few bucks in exchange for being miserable for hours.  

I failed to appreciate how late it was and how hard it would be to find a room.  We spent close to an hour driving around Des Moines looking for a room.  Most were booked, a few didn't have anyone working in the office so late and one had a woman sleeping on a couch in a locked office that wouldn't wake up to wait on us.  I was ready to give up, so I returned to the highway and resumed driving west.  Mary played the role of hero, calling around until she found a Super 8 with a room in Stuart, Iowa.  It wasn't much of a town, and the room was too expensive, but we were overjoyed to get off the road at this point.  We crashed into bed and were asleep in seconds.

We got six solid hours of sleep, hit the continental breakfast and were back on the road quickly. 

Our drive across the plains was spent dodging thunderstorms.  We lucked out, as the impressive lines of storms missed us both to the north and the south.  Considering that we never had to deal with the storms head-on, it was kind of neat to watch them roll by.  Huge, anvil shaped clouds pulsed with lightning while tendrils of rain draped delicately towards the fields on the edges of the storm.  Watching the storms roll across the endless, flat terrain, it was easy to realize how tough life on the plains could be.  

We stopped off in Kearny, Nebraska for lunch at a western franchise, The Egg and I.  I opted for a second breakfast for lunch, and the Huevos Rancheros were terrific.  

As we drove into Colorado the fields of hay stretched as far as the eye could see in every direction.  A traffic sign warned of high winds, and cattle ranches dotted the bleak landscape.  Gusts of wind shook the Jeep and threatened to push us into Semis.  Just as we reached the point where we didn't think we could take another minute of rolling hills of hay we saw them:  pale white ghosts slowly rising on the horizon.  We had driven to Glacier National Park a few years ago, but nothing prepared us for the Colorado Rockies.  

By the time we reached Denver, the mountains towered in front of us.  I could see fields of snow on some of the higher ones.  We decided to push on a bit further before getting a room for the night.  As we drove west of Denver the highway climbed high towards a distant mountain pass.  The Rockies towered over us in every direction.  Eventually we crossed the continental divide.  It was pretty cool to think that if I spilled some water it would now flow to the Pacific Ocean.  

Based on the advice of a friend, we had decided to look for a room in Frisco, Colorado.  We would not regret it.  Frisco, it turns out, is a really cool mountain town.  Its streets are lined with bakeries, coffee shops, restaurants, gear stores and inns, and the Rocky Mountains surround the town in every direction.  We found a room at the Frisco Inn, a bed and breakfast right on Main Street.  

 The Inn had an outdoor hot tub with views of the Rocky Mountains.  We grabbed a couple of cold beers out of the cooler and headed for the hot tub.  Soaking in the hot water with the cool evening, mountain air was the perfect end to a long couple of days of driving.  

We headed across the street to Vinny's for dinner.  The inn-keeper had given us a coupon out of the local newspaper good for 2 for one entrees.  We both ordered the vegetarian dish with grilled portabellas, sweet potato, roasted peppers, broccoli and tofu.  It was obviously prepared by someone who knew what he or she was doing in the kitchen.  We enjoyed our dinners with a couple of local brews while watching the Hawks win in overtime.  It was the perfect end to a long day.  

Our room at the inn was very comfortable, and with a couple of windows open letting in the cold nighttime mountain air we slept like never before.  

After an awesome, and much needed nine hours of sleep we headed downstair for breakfast.  The inn had an impressive spread of fruit, yogurt, pecan rolls, orange juice and coffee laid out in an old-fashioned room.  They prepared eggs benedict (but with avocado instead of meat)  to order for us, with hasbrowns.  It was an amazing meal.  One of the best parts of staying in a bed and breakfast is getting to meet and talk to fellow travelers.  Breakfast was served at a large table in the front room.  We met a couple from Gross Point, Michigan and another man driving his motorcycle out west who provided us with some tips for Zion National Park.  Everyone was very impressed with the length of our planned trip, and perhaps a bit jealous.  Our plans re-affirmed, we were ready to hit the road again.  

  
 

 

 

Summer Travel Plans

After months of deliberation, we've finally decided on our 2013 summer plans.  I can't recall a winter in which we spent so many hours working on a trip, only to run into a dead end and have to start over.  Issues such as permit availability, timing of snow melt and the availability of mass transit in certain parks have derailed our plans multiple times.  The plan usually starts out as a grandiose trip idea, and then as I learn about the destinations, I decide that each one needs more time to be fully explored.  The trips get paired down into something more manageable this way.  Now that we are only three weeks away - we have settled on some destinations. 

We will head out of town on June 7th and race the sunset to the west in our Jeep.  We'll make the long drive to Zion National Park in Utah.  After Zion, the trip will take us gradually east, allowing us to explore Bryce Canyon National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Arches National Park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and Rocky Mountain National Park.  We'll do some front-country camping and day hiking in each park, along with some backpack trips in most of the parks.  I'll beginning to learn about hiking and camping in a desert environment and preparing myself for the first scorpion or rattlesnake sighting!

All told, we'll spend six weeks out west, before returning home for a night.  We'll head north to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore for a week of relaxed camping on the shores of Lake Leeland with family.  Next, we'll head further north, to the cold waters and quiet forests of Lake Superior Provincial Park in Ontario.  The plan is to take a five day paddle trip on Lake Miji, in the park's interior.

On the drive home, we'll meet up with some more family in St. Ignace for a couple of days, including a visit to Mackinaw Island.  We'll be home for a full week while I teach a high school band camp, before heading out again.  Our last destination of the year will be to Vermont for the next 100 miles of the Long Trail.  This section will take us from Sherburne Pass to Smuggler's Notch - arguably the most challenging and most scenic stretch of the nation's oldest thru-hike.

I'll be blogging about all of it, of course. I hope you'll follow along, as we trek from high desert mesas to dark slot canyons, across wildflower-covered meadows beneath snow-capped peaks and along calm, quiet waterways in the paths of loons and otters.  All the way to the summit of Mount Mansfield in Vermont, it should be a grand adventure! 

Maple Hill

We slept in Monday morning, enjoying the quiet of St. Ignace in the off-season.  There is always something alluring and peaceful about being in a tourist town when the tourists are all gone.  The waterfront seemed quieter than usual and the water shimmered in the morning light.  We paid a visit to Java Joe's for some Nutella Crepes and a few leisurely cups of coffee. 

After our late breakfast we headed north on I-75 for the final hike on our trip.  Near the town of Moran there is a dolomite reef set in a maple forest that is called Maple Hill.  I have been meaning to check this strange geological formation out for a while, but by the time we reach St. Ignace we are usually returning from the far north woods and eager for the comforts of civilization.  Monday seemed like the perfect day. 

The drive out of Moran followed a wide, dusty dirt road for about 9 miles.  By the time we reached the trailhead it was hard to imagine anyone had ever been here before us.  The air was a solid twenty degrees warmer inland than it was near the water.  Loading up my daypack on the side of a hot, dusty road in the mid-day heat really made it feel like summer.  A yellow-rumped warbler hopped from branch to branch of a nearby tree while we put on sunscreen and prepared for our hike. 

The trail from the forest road to Maple Hill follows a stretch of the North Country Trail.  The NCT is a nationally-recognized scenic trail, like the Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail, among others.  However, the NCT is a more recent idea, and as such it is still under development.  It runs from Lake Champlain in eastern New York, through Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and North Dakota.  Many stretches of it still require road walking, and only a few hardy souls have undertaken a thru-hike on this trail. 

The word "trail" was really an exaggeration for this section.  The only evidence of a route through the forest were the occasional blue blazes painted onto the maple trees.  The blazes were frequent enough that as long as we were vigilant in looking for the next blaze before proceeding, we weren't really in any danger of getting lost.  The surface of the trail, however, was the forest floor, with no visible path.  Trillium covered the forest in all directions, although not in bloom yet.  In another week this looked to be a fabulous wildflower hike!  The forest was completely deciduous.  Most of the trees had a colorful splash of buds growing, but no leaves yet.  This created an open, airy feeling, and made the sun feel as it if was beating down directly on us. Occasionally, the forest floor would be flooded, making it necessary to pick our way over downed trees and other obstacles to stay dry. 

The trail crossed a few forest roads as it ambled north-east.  We heard the load hammering of a pileated woodpecker several times during our hike.  A little over four miles into our hike the trail climbed gradually, reaching the escarpment of Maple Hill.  This formation was more impressive in person that pictures can convey.  It ran for about a half-mile, climbing 15-20 feet over the trail.  The air up against the rock formation was noticeably cooler.  This dolomite reef is part of the Niagara Escarpment, a formation that runs from Niagara Falls in the East, all the way to the edge of the plains in the West.  This section really was reminiscent of the parts of the Pictured Rocks Lakeshore that move inland, away from the water.  Similar low cliffs set in a deciduous forest predominate that area as well. 

We took a few picture before beginning the return hike.  The dolomite reef was worth the excursion, but the rest of the hike was a bit monotonous.  The scenery seldom changed, and the forest was hot without the shade from leave cover.  We returned to the Jeep a little less than four hours after we had left, not bad for an 8.6 mile hike.  We decided to take a scenic route back to St. Ignace, driving along Brevort Lake and and Lake Michigan along US-2.  The skies were bright blue and the sun hot overhead.  It really felt like summer had arrived. 

After a stop for dinner at the Mackinaw Grille we made the crossing over the bridge.  The sun was still high in the sky to the west, and Lake Michigan shimmered in a golden light, the water calm and inviting.  It is always hard to drive south across the bridge, but at least in the spring we know that we won't have to wait long to return!  For the moment, it was time to head home and finish our summer planning.  The end of the school year is right around the corner, and we have a bunch of plans to finish.     

Through-Hike Eve

Well, after spending the better part of 12 hours in the car today we are finally ready to start hiking. We were up at 7 am today. When I opened the door to the Willows Motel to put the rest of our stuff not going on our hike into the Jeep the sun was already climbing over the mountains. Bathed in warm sunlight, the Green Mountains looked friendly and inviting. We visited the organic bakery and grocery store next door for coffee and fantastic chocolate croissants. Next we drove to the post office to mail one of our food drops. The nice thing about mailing it out here is that the postal worker knew what we were doing because other people do this. Back home the exchange definitely would have brought a "your doing WHAT?". The postal worker was friendly and also a Georgetown basketball fan that likes Michigan State due to Magic Johnson. I think he was happy about the opportunity to talk sports for a change.

At 9 am we picked up the rental car and started our very long shuttle. Our path took us thru Bennington where we could visit Papa Pete's for a robust breakfast. In addition to being a great breakfast joint, this place is famous for being a frequent hang out for members of the band Phish. A healthy helping of French toast with real Vermont maple syrup provided fuel for our long drive.

We stopped at the Inn at the Long Trail to drop off another food drop for ourselves and continued north. The Quechee Gorge provided another rest stop a little while later. Below is a picture of the Gorge. After another three hours of driving we finally reached the small rural community of North Troy. We met the host of the B and B and parked the Jeep for its monthlong rest.

On the drive back to Williamstown we stopped for dinner at the Mainstreet Grill. The grill is a New England Culinary Institute restaurant, providing a training location for their students. This means you get gourmet quality food and service at below market prices. I had a cheese plate featuring all Vermont-made cheeses and a wonderful mushroom risotto. I'm sure I'll be thinking about this meal when I'm eating tomorrow night's dehydrated dinner!

As a write this we are finishing our drive back to Williamstown. Tomorrow our adventure will finally begin! We are both nervous and antsy to get hiking! Driving the entire length of Vermont today really helped to reinforce how completely crazy this hike is. That said, I'm really excited! I'll post every day that I have cell service on the trail. Wish us luck!

The Eastward Trek

The alarm went off at 5 am and after a couple of necessary snoozes we were on the road. We made a quick stop at Big Apple Bagel for coffee and bagels and started the long trek east. Going out east is a much different experience than the usual trip up north. Going up north in Michigan involves passing through mostly undeveloped woodlands dotted with small communities like Grayling, Gaylord and Mackinaw City. Driving east entails passing through endless suburban sprawl marred only by delightful cities such as Flint, Port Huron, Sarnia and Hamilton. On these marathon days I reach a point at which I begin to think "why on earth are we doing this? I think we might pass away in the car!". All of the exits have the same five businesses and the local radio stations all play the same Katy Perry song with maddening regularity

The border crossing can also be a real treat. I have nothing but respect for the men and women who guard our borders and keep us safe. I'm sure it is an impossibly difficult job. After many hours in the car, however it can be tiresome to discuss the origin of the contraband carrots in my cooler. You know, the ones I bought at Kroger in Holt. At today's crossing south of Niagara Falls, NY we had just slowed to a stop at the border crossing when I decided to open my door for a second to stretch my legs. A gust of wind caught hold of the pile of papers I had on my lap and scattered them into the road. I was forced to sprawl onto the pavement and use my arms and legs to knock down and secure the wayward papers, all the while wondering if I had caught the eye of a customs officer deciding which car to search. At times like these Mary likes to break into song. You never know when a nice rendition of Lee Greenwood could come in handy. Fortunately, the customs officer only asked us a couple of questions and we were back on the road again.

Passing into New York things started to improve. Roadside service plazas offered Starbucks frequently enough to keep us dangerously caffeinated. After we made a lunch stop in Rochester the thru-way began to pass through some National Wildlife Refuges. A bald eagle flew directly over the Jeep at one point. The flat terrain of Ontario slowly evolved into hills that grew larger as we drove.


As we entered Massachusetts the Berkshire Mountains began to dominate the landscape. The mountains were veiled in wispy patches of fog drifting across the dark green masses of land. The skies had grown gray and occasional rain showers began as we drove into Williamstown. This area is still one of mystery to us. It gets dark much earlier in the east, which definitely adds to the sense of the unknown. We checked into our hotel and found some dinner at a great tapas place. Tomorrow we pick up the rental car and shuttle the Jeep to the north end of the trail. We made the last few painful decisions of what to take and what to leave in the Jeep before bed. I'm doubting we'll sleep very well tonight as we're both pretty hyped up to begin our hike. Here is the view entering Massachusetts:

Driving Home

After way too many hours in the car we passed the Van Riper State Park around 7:30 and decided to call it a day. Happily there was no one camping in the entire park, being a Monday Night. Most importantly, there were no flies ruining the experience . We had the campsite about half set up when the rumble of thunder warned of coming rain. Our Kelty 16 foot tarp came in handy, covering the fire pit, picnic table and tent. As the tap-tap of light rain hit the tarp we feasted on veggie burgers, corn on the cob and foil packets of veggies and potatoes cooked in the fire. The rain was short lived and left time for some swimming in Lake Michigamme as night fell. We wrapped up the night with s'mores by the campfire as the stars came out.
Today we were up and on the road by 8 am. It has been the perfect day for driving. Last night's cold front left behind cool temps and occasional showers. It's always sad to drive south on the Mackinac Bridge, but knowing we'll be back in less than a week helps. Now we get a few days to do laundry and pack our packs for the coastal trail. Here are a couple of pictures, one of our elaborate tarp set up in the rain last night and the other of the Manistique River we drove over on the scenic route home.

Driving Around the UP: Day Two

The longest day of the year, in terms of daylight, is approaching in the next 10 days. We decided to make the most of this one by setting our alarm for 5 am.
Van Riper State Park turned out to be Grand Central for campers last night. In addition to the throngs of tourists and locals enjoying the warm weather, it was "paws in the park day." The average campground had two wet, smelly and happy pooches. This made for an entertaining evening as it only takes one barking dog to start a concert. This did make me miss my cats, although camping would most definitely not be their thing!
The park is situated right on the shores of beautiful Lake Michigamme. We took advantage of the warm weather and went for a swim at sunset before enjoying a fire and the first s'mores of the season. It was a magical night in the forest, with mild temps and a blanket of stars. It was a quiet night, not the creepy too quiet kind, but just right. I slept like a rock, awakening to that 5 am alarm a bit too soon for my taste.
We threw the camp gear in the Jeep and headed for nearby Craig Lake Stare Park. Craig Lake is Michigan's most remote park (other than the island park Isle Royale). It is reached by driving 9 miles on a rough gravel road weaving through a network of swamps, bogs and woods . The entrance bears a warning sign about the road conditions, but the recent dry weather made for little difficulty this morning. We parked at the trailhead and took the day's first cup of coffee for a walk down to the shores of Craig Lake. The waters were perfectly calm, reflecting the trees and blue skies in a perfect mirror image. Craig Lake is home to a large heard of Michigan's moose population. We walked quietly along the shores hoping to spot one of the giant creatures. Moose can be elusive and we would have to settle for a beautiful sunrise.
Our marathon day continued with the drive into Marquette for breakfast at The Sweetwater Cafe. This was our first trip to this place that specializes in multicultural, organic food prepared with local ingredients . The Huevos Rancheros was some of the best I have ever had, served with black beans, rice and homemade salsa. After an extra cup of coffee we were back on the road. This time we headed north to the town of Big Bay and a rustic hike to a famous series of waterfalls. The Yellow Dog River runs through the Ottawa National Forest and the McCormick National Wilderness, named for the family that donated the land to the government for recreational use by all. The trail head lies twenty miles west of Big Bay and is only reached after navigating a maze of dirt roads and two-tracks. Driving to a remote trail in the woods is often a nerve racking experience, and this time certainly was. The "roads" were unmarked, meaning we had to use the compass and trip odometer to figure out which intersection we were at and the correct way to turn. The farther we drove the more remote it got and the louder the voice sounded in the back of mind telling me to turn around. It is impossible at moments like these not to play-out the worse case scenario game. "What if we get lost?". "What if the Jeep breaks down?". "What if the folks we just drove by in that militia style compound are in fact armed to the teeth and harbor a deep-seated resentment of city folk in red Jeeps?". Fortunately, none of these played out and after a 45 minute bumpy drive, we found ourselves at an abandoned trail head in the middle of an old growth forest. It was a four mile hike round trip out to the Yellow Dog River. Once we reached the river we picked our way along a faint trail that reinforced the remoteness of this area. Staying on the trail required climbing under and over downed trees, rock hopping through quick-sand like mud and eventually shimmying across the river on a well-placed downed tree. The reward was a fantastic view of the 15 foot cascade that few people ever get to see. After enjoying the view for as long as the black flies would allow, we made the return hike to the Jeep. The car thermometer read 95 and we were both hot, sweaty and buggy from our hike. It was the perfect time for a swim. We drove back to Big Bay, paid the two dollar visitor fee at the Marquette County Park and jumped into the refreshing waters of Independence Lake. There is nothing better than swimming in cold clear water on a hot day.
Now we are on our way to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and Twelvemile Campground. Thanks to our early start, we still have close to 5 hours of daylight left! Here are some pictures:




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36 Hours in Traverse City

This weekend epitomizes our particular brand of crazy. The plan was to head to Traverse City for some whitewater kayaking on the Boardman River with the Lansing Oar and Paddle Club. Cold weather and marginal water levels forced the club to cancel the outing however. I have a High School graduation to attend Sunday afternoon, but other than that we have a free weekend with no obligations. So what do we do? Pack the Jeep and head North of course! We found cheap hotel reservations in Traverse City for tonight and in Bellaire tomorrow. We'll hit some of our favorite up north restaurants and squeeze in a little hiking in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. In all we'll drive over 500 miles and drop about $120 on gas for 36 hours of up north time. Add to this the fact that it's raining and 48 degrees and you have the recipe for a classic Moose and Mary trip. We are just about the only vehicle headed North on 127! I'll post some pictures of our hike and maybe a report on our visit to Short's Brewery in Bellaire tomorrow.