By the time we had both showered, dressed and loaded the packs into the Jeep the rain had stopped and the skies lightened a bit. The free hotel breakfast had already ended (who ends a breakfast before 10 am?!), so we hit up the Waffle House next door for some delicious and greasy fare.
By 10:15 am we were on the road. Our nervousness was overtaken by excitement as towering mountains and a raging river both came into view. Our fears were further assuaged by a crowded parking lot at the trailhead. Apparently we weren't the only ones heading out today. The skies had cleared considerably by now, and the sun was streaming through the tall stands of still-bare deciduous trees. We were on the trail at 11am sharp.
My pack was heavier than I would have liked, and I could feel it dragging my shoulders down as I trugged up hill. Hopefully it will feel lighter after we eat some of this food. The trail followed Big Creek for most of the way to Walnut Bottoms Campground, and put on a spectacular show. The freshly melted snow ran a brilliant shade of blue, almost like the glacier fed lakes we've seen in Montana. It crashed over an endless series of waterfalls throughout its path out of the mountains.
The trail was crowded with hikers, most of them on day hikes. One couple moved at the same speed as us, providing the opportunity for pleasant conversation that distracted from the uphill climb. They were retired ex-military from Florida on a 1 year tour of America's National Parks. Talk about a dream vacation! They were both delightful to talk to, although the man provided a less than ideal report on the conditions higher up. They had climbed to the Mt. Cammerer fire tower the previous day and found snow over a foot deep. This was not the news we were hoping for.
We stopped for lunch at the Walnut Bottoms Campground, relaxing in the sun on a large wooden bridge over the creek. This might be the most appealing campground in the Smokies. I would highly recommend it to anyone on a shorter backpack. A couple of horse parties passed by while we ate. Two of the horses forded the steam, an impressive trick to witness, and one I'm sure to be jealous of the next time I have to wade a steam.
After lunch the trail began climbing much more steeply. Big Creek fell further and further beneath us, it's roar still audible for a while. Scattered snow began to appear on the hillsides, but the trail remained dry. Trails in the Smokies all seem to follow the same principles. They follow the path of least resistance, much like rivers, and climb gradually up ridges. The result of this is that a hiker is made to feel as if he is in a wooded maze. Approaching each blind corner on the trail holds the promise that the scenery will change. Rounding the bend and finding more of the same is the usual result. After hours of this, we would sometimes wonder if the ridge ever stopped climbing. We were both overjoyed when the end finally came into sight. Low Gap appeared before us, and for the first time we had views to the East and the West. We were out of the maze.
We stopped to take pictures and eat granola bars at the junction before heading south on the Appalachian Trail. As we climbed the crest of the Smokies we found more and more snow. In the places where the snow was melted, the trail was a soup of mud and water. It was slow going picking our way through this mess. Eventually, we arrived at Cosby Knob Shelter.
We were delighted to learn that the ridge runner working this shelter was the same man from our last Smokies hike! Billy is a former AT thru hiker, and really knowledgable about the area. He was working when the winter storm blew through last week. He showed us pictures on his phone that looked like something out of an Everest Expedition. I'm glad we weren't here any earlier in the week. Billy said that there were reservations for 8 parties in the shelter tonight that weren't AT thru hikers. Of the 8, we were the only ones staying the night. Most were no shows, and two hikers showed up, heard about the heavy snow that lay ahead and turned around and left.
We cooked some soup and a freeze dried dinner of rice and lentils that was surprisingly tasty. The thru hikers staying here tonight are a cold, wet, miserable bunch, eager to get out of the Smokies. Everyone was in bed by 8 am. As I write this, I am tucked into my zero degree sleeping bag, feeling pretty cozy. It was a long day and there is a sense of accomplishment warming me as I prepare to turn off my head lamp and go to sleep.
