As we made our way into southwestern Colorado the terrain rapidly changed. First, the snow vanished, and the mountains began to take on a reddish brown look to them. The highway dropped into Glenwood Canyon for a while, offering sheer rock walls on either side. That anyone was able to construct a highway in such a terrain was fascinating to me.
Crossing into Utah, the landscape changed dramatically. Wide open land stretched as far as the eye could see in every direction. Snow capped peaks loomed on the horizon to the south. The sparseness of the terrain was only broken occasionally by the towering rock formations the highway would climb between. It quickly became clear that Utah was going to be a strange environment for our midwestern eyes.
Eventually we reached the intersection with I-15 and the route turned south. The posted speed limit was 80 mph which made for quick travel. The mileage signs for Las Vegas served to remind us of how far from home we had really come.
By the time we made the drive into Springdale, UT to the south of the park it was close to 8 pm and we were thoroughly sick of driving and of being trapped in the Jeep. The road into the park was stunning. Towering rock formations blocked out the sun on either side of the canyon. The thermostat on the dashboard read 105 degrees. We were nervous that we had arrived to late for a first-come first served campsite for the night as we approached the entry station. The park ranger said that all of the campgrounds were listed as full, but that if we check the reservation only Watchman Campground we might get lucky if someone cancelled at the last minute. He also warned us about the heat in the park and advised us to drink lots of water and hike in the early morning hours.
A few minutes later we were at the Watchman Campground. I held my breath while Mary asked if they had any last minute sites. We were in luck! One site was open, and it was a beauty. It provided a gorgeous view of The Watchman to the East. As soon as we hopped out of the Jeep to set up camp we were taken aback by the wave of dry heat that enveloped us. The air just felt heavy. I found it hard to summon the energy for all of the evening tasks around camp, but it did feel good to be out of the Jeep.
With camp set up, we sat down for dinner at our picnic table. We settled on bagels and cream cheese - it was just too hot to cook. Two hummingbirds flittered by our campsite, and small lizards darted across the nearby rocks. A large mule deer wandered into camp as well. The whole scene was enchanting, and more than a little overwhelming.
We finished dinner in time for the evening program in the campground amphitheater. The park ranger gave a presentation on the aquatic lifeforms living in the parks various water environments. The last drops of sunlight faded out of the canyon, and a cooling breeze began to roll over us. It was the most magical air I think I have ever felt. The presentation included a number of slides of the park - and it served as the perfect way to get excited about all of the amazing sights we would be seeing soon.
We walked back to our tent in the dark, exhausted from three days of driving. It seemed doubtful we would be able to sleep in the still hot desert air, but both of us were asleep in minutes. The air temperature plummeted during the night, and by morning it was a wonderful 70 degrees.
We woke up early, planning to head down to the first-come first-served campground at South as soon as possible to make sure we got a site for the rest of the week. The sun was safely blocked behind the canyon walls to the East, and the whole area had "midsummer night's dream" kind of feel to it.
We found a beautiful site at South Campground with several trees for shade. We took our time setting up, and the morning cool burned off quickly. After finishing setting up camp we loaded up our day packs with as much water as we could carry and headed off for the park shuttle at the visitor center. It made a quick stop at the backcountry desk for some information about our planned backpack, and then we hopped on a bus headed up canyon.
The scenery became even more dramatic as we rode the bus into the canyon. We decided to get off the bus at the trail for Weeping Rock. This was the perfect hike for our first trek in Zion. The path was less than a mile and climbed steeply but briefly to a large overhang. Water seeps right out of this rock and drizzles like rain onto the trail. Looking back to the West from under the overhang provided some jaw-dropping views. 
We at an early lunch while relaxing in the cool air under the overhang, and then made the quick return hike to the trailhead. We decided to grab the bus to the next trailhead - the Grotto. The Grotto is the trailhead for the famous Angel's Landing hike, but our plan took us in the opposite direction. We hiked down canyon towards the Emerald Pools. The trail climbed gradually up the west side of the canyon. The views of the Virgin River and the East Rim were spectacular. The trail was mostly sand and was dotted with cacti, complete with pink and yellow flowers. As we approached the upper Emerald Pool the trail became more strenuous and required some careful foot placement. The air was thick and the sun bore down without mercy, but a steady breeze kept us cool enough while struggling upward.
We at an early lunch while relaxing in the cool air under the overhang, and then made the quick return hike to the trailhead. We decided to grab the bus to the next trailhead - the Grotto. The Grotto is the trailhead for the famous Angel's Landing hike, but our plan took us in the opposite direction. We hiked down canyon towards the Emerald Pools. The trail climbed gradually up the west side of the canyon. The views of the Virgin River and the East Rim were spectacular. The trail was mostly sand and was dotted with cacti, complete with pink and yellow flowers. As we approached the upper Emerald Pool the trail became more strenuous and required some careful foot placement. The air was thick and the sun bore down without mercy, but a steady breeze kept us cool enough while struggling upward.
The Upper Emerald Pool was beautiful. The water, appropriately enough, was an enchanting shade of green. The pool was like an oasis in the desert. Life clung to the edges of the water on all sides: a variety of grasses and shrubs, and even some pine trees grew overhead. Looking straight up at the 2,000 foot walls of sandstone reminded me of Michigan's Pictured Rocks, but on a vastly grander scale. We stopped here for a snack and fended off the brave squirrels intent on stealing our trail mix.
The hike down from the Upper Emerald Pool took us by two other pools, the lower one producing a waterfall onto the trail below. The water was cold and refreshing and most welcome while hiking on such a hot day. The trail passed through a narrow slot in the rock at one point, making for a neat photo:
The hike soon joined an easier trail coming up from the Zion Lodge, and we made good time descending on the paved walkway. After finishing our hike we took the bus back to the campground. It was oppressively hot in the afternoon, so we climbed down the banks from our campground and splashed around in the cold water of the Virgin River.
Our first day of hiking in Zion National Park was stunning. We are planning some harder hikes over the next few days, but today was a great way to get our feet wet. This place is stunning in every way.
