Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Rocky Mountain National Park Day 5: Twin Sisters Peaks

Having logged almost thirty miles and almost six thousand feet of elevation gain in the park, we decided we were ready to attempt our first summit hike.  Making a summit of a mountain in Colorado requires a certain amount of caution and planning.  Most of the peaks are well above tree-line.  The frequent afternoon thunderstorms mean that hikers must make sure they are back beneath that line before the daily storms arrive.  

With this in mind, we set the alarm for 5:30 am.  The gusty winds from the night before had passed, and it was still in the campground at this early hour.  A few songbirds darted about while we hurriedly at breakfast and loaded our day packs.  Our destination was the Twin Sisters Peaks.  This summit, about ten miles outside of Rocky Mountain National Park, can be reached via a tough, 4 mile, 2,300 foot climb.  It would be our first foray above 11,000 feet of elevation in our lives.

We were on the trail before 8 AM, under the cover of brilliant blue skies and abundant sunshine.  Judging by the number of cars already at the trailhead, this was a popular hike.  The trail wasted no time in beginning its abrupt climb through a dense pine tree forest.  The first stretch of trail ascended east, directly into the blinding rays of the morning sun. The intense light cast picturesque shadows through the neat stands of tall, skinny pine trees.  

The hike followed a seemingly endless procession of switchbacks.  The pitch was severe enough that we were both breathing heavily throughout the hike.  As we climbed, views of Long's Peak occasionally shown through gaps in the forest.  It was easy to imagine that the view at the top would be tremendous.  

About thirty minutes into our hike, we passed a large group of teenagers headed in the opposite direction.  They were part of a youth group or summer camp that had hiked up at 3:30 am in order to watch the sunrise from the summit.  I marveled at the exuberance of teenagers as we huffed and puffed our way uphill.

About 1,500 feet into our climb, the trail passed through a stunted forest of tiny pine trees.  The cold, thin air at this elevation made it difficult for trees to grow to their usual heights.  A few switchbacks later, the trees dropped away entirely.  For the first time on our trip, we were above tree-line.

The terrain above the forest was a stark, dramatic one.  A maze of boulders, rocks, and slabs of granite littered the mountainsides all the way to the summit. Tiny, fragile looking wildflowers peaked through the dry rock in places.  The views, no longer obstructed by trees, were astounding.  Snow-capped peaks stretched to the horizon, and the city of Estes Park looked like a model.  

The further we climbed, the tougher the hiking got.  This was likely a combination of the jumbled mess of rocks we were climbing over, and the thin air above 11,000 feet.  Gradually, the communications tower at the top came into view.  Beyond the tower, the trail climbed to a false summit with amazing views of Long's Peak, a 14,000 foot mountain to the west.

We stopped here for a much needed rest and some snacks.  The true summit of Twin Sisters Peaks was off-trail.  A short scramble up a mass of boulders and rocks was required to reach the actual highest point, one most hikers never visit.  

Mary was tired and ready for a rest, but I thought I had some energy left.  The skies looked friendly, still, so I thought I would go for it.  The walk to the base of the climb was arguably the toughest part.  With no trail to follow, I had to pick my way through boulders and slabs of rock.  It made for precarious walking.  Eventually, I reached the base of the climb.  From here I simply picked the path that looked the least resistant.  The scramble up took less than five minutes, but it did require me to use my hands to pull myself up and over boulders and ledges.

At the top I found the survey marker stamped into the surface of the rock by the Bureau of Land Management that indicated the true summit.  The winds threatened to knock me over as I took a few photos.  Mary took my picture from the communications tower, which I've included below.

The climb back down was a slow one, but within ten minutes I was back at the trail.  Nervous about getting caught in an afternoon thunderstorm, we began our descent in earnest.  We passed hordes of hikers heading up the trail while we hiked.  I couldn't help but wonder how they would fare in a thunderstorm.  

The hike down was brutal on our knees.  The resistance muscles needed for downhill hiking just don't get as much use as other muscle groups.  We were more than ready to be done by the time we walked through the final set of switchbacks.  Right on schedule, the loud crash of thunder echoed over the mountain.  Rain began to fall as we hopped into the Jeep.  We felt vindicated in getting up so early to hike.  Our first summit experience was an exhausting one, but a gorgeous hike.